Showing posts with label La Cloche Trail. Show all posts
Showing posts with label La Cloche Trail. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 15, 2021

The Full LaCloche- The Crackin' At the Crack

This post is dedicated to Anne... my biggest fan who has patiently been waiting for the final installment.

When you last met our heroine's they were attempting to walk the La Cloche trail in nine days.  They met with fainting spells,  rain,  a bear or rather a very imposing tree stump posing as a bear,  more rain, gastrointestinal complaints, rain,  hills, rain, rocks,  rain, tree roots, drizzle, waterfalls, fog and finally a sliver of sun.  What was in store for the rest of the journey????  Read on and find out! 

Day 5-  What the F!!!!
I woke up on Day 5 to puddles inside the tent.

Night-time accident????

No!

The storm proved to be too much for my poor tent and it ripped out the window at the end.    My sleeping bag, Thermarest and all the contents in the tent were soaking wet.

Great!  Another day of carrying more water weight.    Glum was the mood of the morning, neither of us were looking forward to what we had in store for the day.

The walk to the privy was still very, very long and did nothing to improve my mood.  To boot, I had a salamander encounter at the privy.  The little bugger ended up crawling up to sit right beside me as I did my business.....  it was a good thing I was sitting where I was as I have a healthy respect (aka phobia) about salamanders which stems from childhood encounters at the Lions Pool where hundreds of the little creatures would come to commune each year making it next to impossible to walk without stepping on one. 

On the plus side, the walk out did not seem half as long as the walk in and before we knew it we were climbing again.

UP

DOWN

UP

DOWN

And so the morning passed away.  On one of the downs we met up with two young women who were hiking the trail together.  They were searching for a phone that they lost when they stopped to take pictures.  They asked us if we had seen it, as they thought they had lost it in this area.  We replied we hadn't and stood chatting for a few minutes, thankful for a break from the relentless up and down of the trail.

We had just started walking again when I caught a flash of blue out of the corner of my eye.  Can you believe it, it was the phone the ladies had been looking for.  We sounded the alert and the ladies doubled back.  The owner was ecstatic as she was dreading the cost of having to replace it on a student budget.  Our parting gift-  they forewarned us of what was to come!!!!

Sometimes in life it is better not to know what is in store.  This would have been one of those situations.  We had both been lamenting about how hard it was to cross the open rock faces without slipping when we found out the mother of mothers was yet to come!

Within a few minutes we were to the spot the ladies warned us about.  Pack free the twosome skipped and tra la laed down the trail.  Meanwhile we were frozen in dread at the edge of an approximate15 foot drop.

Did I mention that S is afraid of heights????  She made it to the edge and could go no further.  She contemplated dropping her pack but was fearful of damaging her sons' iPod.  She also realized that even without the pack the drop was still too far for her to jump down safely. 

I sidled on over and gave the situation a gander.  I didn't like what I saw.  I quickly ruled out going straight down, but I saw that there was a possibility to stand on the ledge and then work my way around a face of rock the jutted out to another ledge and from there, it looked like there was enough hand and foot holds to climb down to the next ledge of rock.

I told S my plan and she looked at me dubiously!

Why?

It might have been the large gap between the two ledges and the outcropping of rock that preceded the gap.

I asked her to scootch over so I could try.  I said a little prayer as I launch myself over the cleft and made it to the ledge on the other side of the jut.  S couldn't believe it!  She was even more amazed when I told her to pass me her pack.

She was in the middle of commenting "There is no way you can hold my pack and your pack and get down...." when I grabbed her pack and hoisted it over.  I clung to the rock holds and moved over more so that she could make it over to hold her pack so I could get down to the next level.  We continued in this fashion until we were back on solid ground.

What is it that they say-  "Slow and steady wins the race!".

Yet again we praised the powers that be that we did not need to hike that part of the trail in the pouring rain.  I definitely did not need slippery rocks to be added to the mix.

It wasn't long after our lunch break when we came across the yellow blaze that identified our turn.  This was probably the longest walk down to a campsite and it kept going.... down.....down.... down.  The decent was reminiscent of that Johnny Cash song-  "I fell into a burnin' ring of fire, I fell down, down, down and the flames grew higher.  But instead of actual flames it was my knees that were burnin'.

As luck had it the sun was out when we made it to David's Lake and Lord did we need it.  I had all my gear to dry and needed to dry out my fly to try and repair the window as another storm was predicted for that night.
David's Lake

A common view-  Boot drying whenever the opportunity presented!

Thank goodness for tree's....Nature's clotheslines!

Not bad for a make-shift repair
We moved our gear around from spot to spot until the sun was hidden behind the trees.  The glue wouldn't bond the window to the fly, so I had to improvise with Gorilla tape and plastic bags.

It was a quick night as we knew a storm was coming and it wasn't long after we retired for the evening that the storm rolled in.  

There are storms and then there are STORMS!   Mother Nature decided a mega storm was needed to battle test my tent repairs.  Lying in the tent I could feel the thunder roll off the lake and travel up and over my body past the tent.  The rain came down in deluge and the lighting cracks sounded like they were happening right over us.  Sleep alluded us both as one storm passed the next cell rolled in.  It was a long, long night.  But I am happy to report it was a dry one!!!!

Day 5 was also the Day that I accidently Dutch ovened myself.  I was snug in my sleeping bag and passed a little gas.  It wasn't until I rolled over 15 minutes later that the gas escaped and filled the tent.  Luckily the odious gas smelled like beef jerky.... okay maybe not that lucky because all I could think about was how much I wanted some beef jerky, but it was hanging up in a tree and there was a storm so I couldn't have any... which just made me want it more.


Day 6-  Pepe la Pew-  Is it Me or the Latrine???
"Morning has broken, like the first morning, black bird has spoken, like the first bird..."  Unfortunately instead of the sunrays and ideallic conditions this song conjures up, Day 6 was a day of cold and unrelenting rain.  We began the long and slippery walk up to the main trail and tried to cheer ourselves up by talking about having a hot lunch instead of normal jerky and GORP staple.  The terrain was still filled with copious PUD's- pointless ups and down (a term that I learned from my reading about the Appalachian trail).

At one point we had to rock climb down yet another wall.  I found a quick way down and decided to take my pack off while I waited for S.  I waited and waited and eventually looked over my shoulder to see what was holding her up.  There was S climbing up the way we came.  

Puzzled I asked where she was headed.  Her reply was the trail goes this way.  "Hmmmmm... not really." I said. You need to head down not up.  The rain and endless rocks can be so disorienting.

The original plan was to leave our packs at the bottom of a side trail and to hike up to the top of Silver Peak.  As we neared the turn off neither of us felt the need to prolong our time out in rain and the cold... yup... the chill set in on Day 6 and it got a little nippy out there.    We trudged along and rejoiced when we hit the turn off for H37- Silver Lake. 

Hot Diggity Dog!  We couldn't wait for our hot lunch to cook as we were both frozen.  As it turned out the Persian Peach Chicken and Rice meal wasn't very good but we scarfed it down as we needed the warmth and the calories.  As soon as the meal was finished we quickly set up our tents so we could get into dry clothing and out of the cold.  

This was the camp site that I regretted having the smaller tent.  S needed a larger space so she nabbed the perfect spot.  I was not so lucky.  The only other option for my tent was right in front of the privy and as it would happen the wind was blowing from that direction.  I had flashbacks to my youth.  In my home town when the wind blows from the east everyone gets a whiff of the sewage plant.... not pleasant. 
S's tent, my tent and right behind that the privy

Do I look like I am enjoying myself... lies, all lies!
As I hunkered down in my only remaining dry clothes and sleeping bag I found myself playing a game... what smells worse-  the privy, my underarms or my boots..... all were in fine odoriferous form!  Thank goodness I had thought to brew some Earl Grey tea.  When the smell got too much I would open the top of my travel mug and inhale the sweet nectar of Bergamot!  
 

The afternoon was spent listening to the weather report... -2 overnight.... and reading.  There is nothing more decadent than being curled up in a sleeping bag and reading the afternoon away while listening to the wind blowing through the trees and the gentle pitter patter of rain on the tent fly.   After days of walking in the rain I was thankful to have a break from it.  



How all afternoons should be spent

Silver Lake has two campsites.  The one we were on and H38.  Both have crappy access to water but out of the two, our site was the better option.  Both S and I chuckled a little as we listened to our fellow lake sharers lamenting about their climb down to the water.  I don't know about S but I was high-fiving myself that I had done my research and knew to ask for H37.





Silver Lake-  Dull grey skies seemed to be our fate!

The sun came out for one brief second on Day 6

Day 7-  Ninja Moves with a Slice of Heaven
Day 7 brought with it sun.  It was a welcome reprieve from the dull grey skies.  We started off our hike heading toward Bunnyrabbit Lake.  Along the way we encountered a mother/daughter hiking team who had stayed at that lake the day before.  We stopped to chat and to find out if the fire ban had finally been lifted, as surely to God the ground had to be saturated enough..... the answer was a negatory, the ban was still in place.   The ladies informed us that they hike this trial every year.  S and I looked at each other and it's like we were telepathically communicating through eyebrow raises and slight facial changes.... "Who would willingly do this year after year!  INCONCEIVABLE!

We started lamenting about all the rain we had encountered and that was when this dynamic duo reported that their solution to rain is to hike in their sandals and to carry their boots under their backpack covers.  Neither S or I are convinced that this option is worth the risk of injury, but not having to walk in McSquishy boots did sound nice.

Not long after we encountered the women we lost the path.  S was adamant that the path was just up this rock face and through a "little" bit of bush.  The whole situation felt harder than it really ought to be so I retraced our path and discovered that we were meant to turn left after the creek crossing not forge ahead.  Back on trail we continued to encounter many, many PUD's.  There was one in particular that had me sucking wind and starting to think that maybe living in the forest might be a viable option.  Luckily S provided the motivation to keep on plodding up, up, up.  

Heaven Lake (taken on a previous trip)

By noon we made it to Heaven Lake.  Heaven Lake is the highest lake in the park and is a little slice of heaven.  It was also where the two women who lost their phone were staying.  We chatted with them about the hike and their school while picnicking on Babybel's and jerky.  The women indicted that they planned on hiking out the next day.  I used this as a opportunity to continue to plant the seed that we could finish the trail as well the next day.  S still wasn't sold so I pulled out the heavy guns.... just picture it... we could shower and wash off all this dirt, sweat and grime.  I could see that S was taking the bait!

Finally we arrived at our site for the night Little Superior! For years we had tried to book this site but it is next to impossible to get it unless you are doing the full trail.  There is a climb to get into this site but it is so worth it.   

We took advantage of the sun and the spacious site and unpacked all our gear and packs to allow everything to dryout.  This was the first time since the first day on the trail that everything was totally dry.  Our well used clothes were so dry that they were stiff like cardboard and could stand-up on their own.  

This site also provided access to an awesome rock ledge that allowed us to sit and dangle our used and abused feet in the refreshing waters, our grins were from ear to ear and our previous trail grippes were quickly forgotten.
Little Superior- Is is a bird?  Is it a plane?  It's blue frickin' sky!!!

All too soon frolic time was done and we started the work of setting up camp.  One of my assigned tasks is to hang the food, as I have some master skills related to tossing rocks and ropes.  On this occasion I miss judged my toss and the line got stuck up in the tree.  Not a problem.... this has happened countless times before.  I did what I normally do, I yanked on the line.... but what happened next was anything but usual.  It took a second for me to realize that the rock was coming back at me at a faster speed than it usually does and it was coming straight at my face.  With lighting fast reflexes (something I did not know I possessed) my hand shot up in front of my face and deflected the rock.  I was torn between doing a jig to celebrate avoiding a head injury and swearing a blue streak due to pain in my index finger.  The throbbing throughout the rest of the night acted as a reminder to be grateful that it was my finger that was hurt not my face.  

As I mentioned, I had been trying to convince S to end the trip on Day 8 vs 9.   I was convinced that we could do it and continued talk about how good it would feel to wash the 7 days of grime off and to be in clean clothes finally worn S down and she was on board.  Tomorrow we would be squeaky clean and on the road back to civilization and the food item of our choice (mine was sushi).  

Tired of carrying more weight than we needed to we decided we would eat the "bonus" meal so that we did need to carry it out.  We were both skeptical about the freeze dried beef and potato dinner as the picture wasn't too appealing.   As it turns out it was one of the best meals of the trip... I guess you can't judge a meal by the name as plain jane beef and potato was infinitesimally better than Peach Persian Chicken.  

After such a blissful day it was hard to pack it in for the night but we needed sleep so that we had the energy to finish hiking out the next day.  I blissfully fell asleep planning everything I was going to do once I was home.  S wasn't as lucky as a porcupine decided to come down and visit her side of the campsite.   Thinking about it maybe it was the lingering smell of latrine on my tent that saved me from a similar visit.  Long live Pepe la Pew!!!!!

Day 8-  The Crack Claims Another Victim
I was up early on Day 8 for two reasons-  I was madly hankering for a shower and I had a secret goal.... I wanted to be fully packed before S; who had won 7 out of the 8 morning packing challenges (not that she knew she was in a competition; let alone that she was winning).  Do you know how hard it is to quietly fill compression bags.... very, very difficult but some how I managed to be quiet enough to get it all done while S slumbered.  By the time she queried if I was up all I had left to pack was the tent.  

Victory was mine!!!!!

I savoured the win as I knew what was in our future.... open rock faces and many, many PUD's.  We didn't have far to walk to start the first uphill rock climb.  
Poor S! (Taken previous visit)

I had to laugh when S saw it, as her reaction was much the same as mine a few years previous.  I let her know that this particular section truly is more of a bitch going down than up.  We slowly picked our way up and up and up.   

Maybe it was getting up early, maybe it was age but Day 8 brought with it bone grinding pain in my knees and ankles.  When we stopped for lunch at the top of the Crack I dug out my pain relievers and decided it was worth double dipping (two Tylenol/two Ibuprofen).  I couldn't wait for the drugs to work their magic as the biggest and longest down was about to happen.  

For those of you who have never done the Crack, here are some shots of the boulders that you have to climb over, around and down.  It is not for the faint of heart, nor for people who are not sure footed as many of the rocks look stable but start wobbling as soon as you commit to standing on it.  

THE CRACK (take previous visit)

I flew down this section, as the happy thought of showering was spurring me on.  S on the other hand became "stuck" about 1/2 way down.   As soon as I realized I took off my pack and clambered back up the rocks to carry her pack down for her.  

Once through the boulder section the trail switch backs over a large rock face that has.... you guessed it more PUD's.  We were both happy when the rocky section was done.  All that was left was a steep dirt downhill, cross a stream and then we would have rather level forest walking for another 6 km.

As we started down the last hill of this section, we realized that there was a group of about 20 people climbing their way up the middle.  We moved over the the side and started our descent.  S was nimble and had already switch backed to the other side when I lost my footing.  

I had forgone my normal 4 point backward bear walk as I didn't think the group of 20 wanted to see my lumbering buttocks making it's way down the trail to meet them.  That was my mistake.  Side ways walking proved to be my undoing.... leftie slipped on loose rubble and before I could react it was sliding down the hill where it wiped out rightie.  I tumbled forward and was able to brace myself with my hands on the dirt and rock above me.  The pain in leftie was excruciating.  I was frantically trying to push my weight up and off my foot and ankle but the position of leftie was making it challenging.  I pushed up again and tried to wiggle leftie out.... and then the weight of my pack shifted up and over my head and there was a very loud pop and searing pain!
The scene of the crime! (Taken previous visit


FUUUUUUUCCCCCK! was out of my mouth before I could even register I was speaking.  Imagine my chagrin when I looked up only to see a small child within feet of me.   I continued swearing but reverted to internal swear combinations.    I don't know how it is possible for my ankle to be both numb and excruciatingly painful at the same time but that was what was happening.  It took a few minutes before I could summon the physical and mental ability to try and move my ankle.  By this time the small child was adjacent to me.  He looked really, really worried and kept asking if I was alright.  I wasn't.... but I didn't want to add to his angst so put on a smile (which in hind sight was probably more of a strained grimace) and used a sing song voice to say "No Worries!  I'll be fine.  I just need to rest it.  Look!  See it's moving.  It's all good!  Go enjoy your hike".  the child was unconvinced and it took a few minutes before I could encourage him to continue walking up the hill.  Such a compassionate soul! 

S was now trapped on the other side of the trail and couldn't help, as the rest of the day hiking group had reached us and were continuing their slow assent up the hill.  "Smile and wave." became my mantra.  As soon as the group had passed I stood up and started putting full weight on my foot.  After the initial few steps I declared we were finishing the last 6 km.  Nothing was going to stop us.  5 steps later sounds were coming out of me that I had never heard before... think keening noises.  By the bottom of the hill I had changed my mind and opted for the short cut out to a parking lot where we could bum a ride back to the main camp ground.  

S jumped into action and raced out ahead, hoping that she could get a ride back to my truck and be back at the parking lot before I hobbled out.  I would love to say that I was stoic on the walk out but it went something like this..... 

Ugly cry blubbering....

Oh crap! People approaching!

Wipe away tears and snot

Smile extra big, exchange pleasantries..... 

The moment the people were out of my periphery... resume ugly crying.

REPEAT, REPEAT, REPEAT!!!!!! Ad nauseum.

The only people that I broke down in front of was a family with a Golden Retriever.  All I wanted was some Golden love but the dog sensed I was not right in the head and wanted nothing to do with me.  In my conversation with the Mom and Dad I finally admitted I thought my ankle might be broken and as soon as I said it the water works turned on.  They couldn't high-tail it out of there fast enough.  I can't blame them.... run people, run!

As I was nearing the trail head two tall, blonde, lithe Valkyries swooped in on me.  They asked if I was the woman who was hurt on the trail.  I confirmed that I was.  They informed me they were there to rescue me and carry my pack out.  I was hesitant to hand the pack over because 

a.  They were clean
b. The pack most certainly was not.  
c. Atholl is and continues to be my burden to bear.  

They would not take no for an answer and frankly my energy was now focused on holding it together.  

I'm laughing as I write this... just remembering the look on the unlucky Valkyrie's face when she put the pack on.  She commented "The other woman told us about the rain is your pack still wet from that?"  

Uhhhhh no........ I hate to tell you, but  that moistness you are feeling is today's sweat.   That might be the last time she volunteers to help anyone.  

Pack off, I flew down the trail.  A comment was made that I could take my time and slow down, but I needed out and to be one step closer to home.  

It didn't take long to reach the parking lot.  The pack toting Valkyrie shed the pack ASAP, probably cringing inwardly but putting on her neutral "I'm OK" face.   With seconds a guy saunters over to ask if I was the injured back-packer.  He was disappointed that I made it out before he could swoop in and help.  If only he had been on the trail he would have carried me out on his back.  He obviously doesn't know me and how extremely difficult it is for me to accept help.  Quite frankly I would be more likely to crawl and claw my way down a trail than agree to be carried.  

As we waited I found out my rescuers were from Germany and were travelling across Canada visiting Parks.  They were just parking when S reached the parking lot and their other friend gladly drove her back into the Park to get the truck.  I sighed with relief when S pulled into the parking lot with the truck.  

It wasn't until I got in the vehicle that I realized my dream of a shower wasn't going to happen.  I couldn't risk my ankle and foot swelling by taking off the boot.  I offered to wait for S to have a shower but she was magnanimous and declined.  If I was going to be tres dirty, she was going to be as well.

The drive north to Sudbury gave us some time to weigh the pros and cons of going to the closest Hospital or waiting until we got home to head to the local hospital.   It didn't take long for me to make the decision... the sooner I knew for sure what I was dealing with the better.  

S dropped me off at the main doors to the Emergency and went to park as I hobble in with my walk pole as an ambulatory aid.  It didn't take long for me to become self-conscious of how bedraggled and dirty I was.  I found myself being very quick to explain I had been in the bush for 8 days and I hoped against hope that everyone I encountered took that to mean that my lack of hygiene was a blip... not a common occurrence.  I was quickly sent to Radiography where there was a surprising lack of chairs.  It felt like I was standing in the hall for an eternity before they called my name.  It wasn't until I was on the table that it occurred to me that my boot and socks would need to come off.  The same boot and socks that days before I was trying to figure out smell better or worse than the smells coming from the privy.  I warned the  X-ray Tech to give me a large berth, to hold her breath and give me a bag I could quickly pop the boot into to contain the smell.  She gladly complied.  

X-ray done I was escorted down the hall to another bay to await the final verdict.  As I waited for the Dr.  I changed from my hiking pants to my rain pants with the side zips just in case I needed a cast.   No sense in destroying a perfectly good pair of pants.  

The Dr. arrived and informed me that indeed I had a spiral fracture of one of my bones and I would need a cast.  The Dr. was going straight to casting when S piped up and commented-  "Could you at least wash her leg and foot... we have been out in the bush for the last 8 days and it will be a while before she will be able to wash that part of her leg!".  The Dr. commented that it would cost extra but did a quick sponge bath of my limb before casting.  

The nurse arrived with crutches that were entirely too big for me but which she convinced me were supposed to fit like that... my brain said neigh, neigh... but my body just wanted the hell out of Dodge so I gladly accepted them and vaulted my way out of the building.  

A quick stop at Harvey's for a burger and a bathroom pit-stop and we were headed home. 

All in all it was a great trip but it still bugs me that we missed completing the trail by "that much"!  

S continued to be a great help over the next few days as I relearned how to complete activities of daily living like crawling up and bum scooting down stairs; getting groceries; making meals and doing laundry. I didn't realize how much I took my mobility for granted until I was couch/bed bound.  

ADDITIONAL NOTES AND SUNDRIES:
  • If you are ever in a jam, pray to God that German tourists are around, as they really brought their helpful A game!
  • Handy pharmaceuticals that helped make the trip bearable: Naproxen; Tylenol; Pepto Bismol; Gravol; Advil
  • Books Read on the trip: PS I Love You; Always and Forever Lara; Confessions of a First Time Mom;  13 Ways of Looking at Fat Girl (partial); The Home for Unwanted Girls (partial).
  • # of Times that I questioned my definition of fun:  1,000,000 to the millionth power
  • Impromptu Sing Alongs: 11; including an amazing duet to "Total Eclipse of the Heart" on the drive home.
  • Best Song of the Trip: It was a tough decision so I am picking two-  A little ditty my nephew taught me: I Farted, it tickled, my butt cheeks giggled and The Proclaimers- "500 Miles" both were sung ad naseum. 
  • Pro tip:  Include the distances or estimated distances of travelling from the turn off into the camp site in your overall totals.  There is nothing worse then getting to the yellow blaze and then finding out you still have another .8-1.5 km to walk.
  • Pictures of the various casts that I sported post trip:

The original beastie

Cast #2



Third time was the charm































  • I was in a cast and non-weight bearing from Aug 31- mid December and did not fully graduate from crutches until the end of Jan.  It was a long haul.
  • Another Pro Tip:  If you need to get crutches at the Hospital make sure they fit them properly for you.  They "sold" me crutches for someone 5' 10" tall.  I am not 5' 10" tall which meant it felt like I was pole vaulting everything I was propelling forward and I also could not use the crutches in my house.  Thank goodness I had appropriate sized crutches at home.  
  • An assortment of bruises from the trip:
    When back country camping the legs take a beating.


In order to save your face sometimes a finger has to be sacrificed.

The result of the sling and swing method of donning a pack


  • It took another two weeks before the dogs were able to come home.  A huge shout-out to Golden Pride Kennels for keeping them way longer than anticipated and to S for picking them up.  It was a happy day when they returned.  
The Return of Gimli & Ferg
  • Did you know that crutch tips and dog fur don't work well together.  I found out the hard way when a tuft of floating fur got trapped under the crutch when I got up in the middle of the night.  The crutch skidded away from me and I headed for a tosser and had to touch down.... searing pain!
The liberating freedom of gliding
  • Tasks like doing your laundry become an event when you are on crutches.  I would load the laundry in garbage bags and throw it down the stairs.  I would pack up a small pack filled with the phone, snacks, iPad and beverages and butt scoot down the stairs, because once I was down in the "pit of despair" aka my basement, I was there until the laundry was done.  
  • Pro Tip #3-  Did you know that bras are not just for carrying and containing boobs... this handy product also makes an amazing hands free carrier for food, phones, etc. 
  • A shout- out to K who loaned me her mother's Rollator so that I could use it inappropriately, to glide around the house with my knee propped on it until the cast came off.  I also learned the hard way that Rollators don't easily handle the transition in flooring changes.  I was basking in the freedom of gliding down the hall when the wheels struck the edge of the tile and I, the garbage I was carrying and the Rollator went ass of tea kettle to the floor.  Fun times... fun times! 
  • I managed to work from my bed until the cast finally came off.  I kind of missed my office assistant Ferg when I returned to the office.
Ferg The Taskmaster
  • Never did I ever think I would be excited to pay bills but I can't tell you how liberating it felt the first time I drove after being casted.
First "Road Trip" post casting
  • My convalescence stash

    I did not expect the PTSD...  I would wake in the night in a sweat from dreams about fracturing my leg and I would be up for hours before I could fall back asleep.  Every book I read and show I watched during that time seemed to have a leg/ankle fracture that would leave me cringing.   
  • I am a lucky woman... there were many people who graciously showed up to help me out.  S who not only made sure I made it home but who kept me stocked in Snapple and sour soothers;
    the teen down the street who helped walk the dogs; my co-workers and friends who provided some ready made meals while I was relearning everything;  M for taking over mentoring the new OT's in my absence; K for the rides to my appointments and for the cheer-up ice cream; Dance Mom S who came to walk dogs; P who found a fantastic forever home for the foster dog I was carrying for at the time; my neighbour who helped me pick-up dog poo; my sister who flew my Mom out to care for me and my Mom who did what she does best... Mummied me to the extreme.  
  • It has taken two years to feel fully confident back-packing again.  But here are some shots from trips I have taken since The Crackin' at the Crack.  Notice the new tent!!!


    My Partner in Back-packing Crime

    Leftie Survived
    2021 Orphan Lake with the Expanded Herd- Oaks, Whisper and Ferg!






Wednesday, September 19, 2018

The Full LaCloche- Promising Beginnings Followed by Stark Reality

The LaCloche Silhouette Trail in Killarney Provincial Park... to be referred to henceforth as the LaCloche!


I have hiked portions of this trail before-in both the East and West directions, but up until this point I had never contemplated hiking the full thing.     I remember the first time I saw this sign... so ominous and foreboding and definitely a warning that this trail is not for the faint of heart!
Photo Credit- S
A little history- My backpacking experience over the last 10 years has mainly consisted of hiking into a designated spot and then staying put for a few days.  Truly it is more like a Backcountry Spa experience than backpacking- complete with hot stone massages and opportunities to practice meditating in natural surroundings.... sounds great right?

It is!!!!!

In fact, there have been many occasions when I sat dry and snug under a tarp eating my pancakes and bacon and secretly laughed at thru-hikers- walking in the gloom of rain storms.   Who would want to do that????

Well apparently I do.....

Believe me... no one was shocked more than I was, when I decided on my last trip to the La Cloche that I wanted  to challenge myself and do a thru hike of this trail.   It took another year before I felt ready to commitment to this adventure.

I began my preparations for this hike in March 2018 by watching YouTube videos about the LaCloche trail while working out on the elliptical carrying "Wee Angus" my mid- size pack.  Once I exhausted all the LaCloche video's I moved on to other trails-  The Appalachian Trail; The Pacific Crest Trail; The Alps; The West Highland Way; The John Muir Trail, etc, etc.  How I looked forward to my nightly trips around the world.  Hands down the best 45 minutes to 1 hour of my day.

Side note:  If you choose to use this method of preparing, disappointment may occur on the trail, as you will not be able to finish the trail in 45 minutes to an hour.... there is way more walking, carrying way more weight... (insert sad emoji here).  Future disappointment aside- YouTube ended up being a useful tool, as the videos contained helpful information about the campsites, where the last water stops were for miles and about the terrain that I could expect to cover.

My good friend S decided she wanted to join me on the trip.  Our first obstacle was negotiating how long this trip was going to take.  I wanted to complete the trail in 8 days and she wanted to spread it over 10 days.  A compromise of 9 days on the trail was reached and for once we were able to book all the sites we wanted.  S and I felt like we had won the lotto as this hardly ever happens when booking campsites in Killarney's backcountry... be prepared to do some quick rejigging of your plans.  On my last trip I ran into a woman who couldn't get the site she wanted which meant she had to walk 22 km in one day to get to the next available site. 

S and I were feeling good about the trip.  Most days had manageable distances with the longest day being 12.6 km.  We spent the months leading up to the trip kinda freaking each other out.  I trained with the pack and S worried that I would be more in shape.  S started running and riding her bike longer and longer distances, I freaked out I was going to the be the weak link.  All summer long this non-competition/competition played out.  It stands to reason that all this pushing would result in the inevitable injury.  S was recovering from a frozen shoulder.  She was happy that the shoulder was starting to unfreeze when her other shoulder decided it did not want to be left out of the fun and it started down the path of freezing as well.   Me-  Well I ended up with plantar fascia pain and a recurrence of shin splints in my left leg. We were two weeks away from the trip and both of us were humming and hahing if our bodies would be up for the challenge.... me more than S.  S was game to give it a try.  I was a little harder to convince, but after some sessions with the AccuHealth my foot and shin pain were manageable and I decided pain or no pain I was in as well.

As it turns out, my leg and foot pain might have been a gentle warning that the La Cloche was not for me. But did I listen.... of course NOT!  The universe, fearing for my safety, tried to warn me in other ways.

Here was the fortune that I received in my fortune cookie three days before the trip.


I will admit my superstitious side was starting to freak out and lead to my purchase of both a splint and compass... both of which I have never felt the need to backpack with.  My spidey senses were alert and I decided I needed more cosmic wisdom and consulted  The Book of Answers on the matter.

Q:  Will the camping trip go okay?
A:  "Starling events may occur as a result!"

AHHHHHHH!

Definitely not the reassurance I was looking for before heading out on the trail.  What could happen?  When would it happen?  Would I come out of this alive???????

Day 1-  Stalkerazzi- Wilderness Style
On the drive to the Park, S and I decided that if we could, we would change our campsite for the first night to one further down the trail.  We wanted to lessen the distance we needed to travel on Day 2 as it was supposed to rain. 
  
We were second in line to check in.  Our jaws dropped as we listened to the three Dudes who were in front of us talking about their plans with the Park Ranger.  The Dudes planned on doing the full 78 km in two nights/three days...... How??? WHY!   Like I mean WHYYYYYYY! I thought I was pushing the envelope when I had suggested doing the trail in 8 days, as the literature recommends 7 as the minimum number of days to do the trail. 

"The Dudes" became a staple in our conversation. What would possess someone to do a 7-10 day trail in three days?  Did their camping permits get stamped high risk as indicated on the maps and trail information packages? How long were they going to walk each day?

S & I would talk about what we might encounter, about what was happening, but somehow the conversation would drift back to the Dudes.  This topic was usually introduced with a- Why?  That was all that was needed to know what would follow- the Dudes.   It would take us three more days to find the answers to our questions.
  
We were about 3 kms in on the trail when a familiar feeling over took my body.  Heat rose from my feet and started to overwhelm me.  Whooshing started to sound in my ears and my vision started to get spotty.  The urge to shuck my pack and lie down was strong.  If I didn't get it off and get down low I knew that it wouldn't be long before I lost my vision. 

I shimmed my arms out of the arm straps and let Atholl (my big pack) drop like a stone to the ground.  I wasn't far behind in planting my keester.  Then the focus was on my breathing..... in.... out..... in.... out.  Eventually my swimming vision wasn't so swimmy and I felt like I could redon Atholl and continue onward as long as we could stop and rest a little at Acid Lake.  Here was the view.
Acid Lake

We made it to our camp site in good time and H6 on Cave Lake was spectacular.  The ground was so soft and there was a lot of flat rocks to lie down on... and that was the first thing that I did once Atholl and I parted ways.  The next step was getting my sweaty boots and socks off.  There is nothing as delightful as shedding 60 lbs in a matter of seconds.  The only problem is it takes a bit to get used to the immediate weight loss.... enter the drunken staggering.... not drunk from alcohol but from freedom! 
Cave Lake- Initial views

In the backcountry- the doffing of the pack and boots is  quickly followed by setting up camp.  I grabbed a hold of the end of my tent and flicked my wrists to begin the unfurling. End over the end the tent unwound until it was lying flat.  As this was happening I could hear a rattling ring which baffled me.  What was that sound and where was is coming from?

It didn't take long to find out.  As the tent reach the end of the roll something small and round flung out the end and started rolling down the rocks.  I leaped up and ran after it, managing to catch it in some pine needles a few paces away.  As I opened my hand  I started chuckling.... the cat had booby trapped my tent.  He obviously heard my rant about only packing the essentials so he sent his prized possession with me.

Just what I didn't want, useless weight that I would have to  carry with me for 8 more days.  But the first rule of backpacking is packing out what you pack in so this dingle ball was going on an adventure of a life time.

Tents up, it was time to get the rope up in the tree for bear hanging the food.  This chore falls to me as it seems it is one of my super powers.  I credit my lucky rock from Lake Superior, but I suppose skill could also be involved.   S was amazed that I was able to get the line up in the tree on the first try..... she obviously forgot about the lucky rock and about my mad rock throwing skills!
All the chores completed... it was time to explore.  Cave Lake is called Cave Lake because it has a.... wait for it....  a cave!  Can you make it out on the distant shore? 


Can you spot the cave?
I loved this site and really could have stayed here for the full duration of the trip, except for two things-  a school of freaky translucent fish and one giant-ass cat fish.  The translucent fish were freaky.  They followed your every move.  I had to resort to tricking them to scoop water i.e. feint right and quickly dart to the left.

Luckily the cat fish did not show up until the next morning.  I don't trust cat fish as they have a look of pure evil about them... it has to be the whiskers.... why do fish need whiskers????... they don't!  It's just not natural I tell you!.   I feared for my foot and toes which hovered just above the water holding the line for the water pump in position.  What if the cat fish launched itself out of the water and nabbed my toe.

Don't laugh!  You saw my fortunes pre trip.... it could have totally happened and then I would be down one or two toes and have to limp the rest of the 70 km.  I jumped up at least twice retreating away from the edge of the water as far away from the evil fishies as I could get.  Once my heart rate returned to normal I would plop back down to resume pumping but it didn't take long for the little suckers to return and scare me away again.  Friggin' Fish! 

Don't let the calm surface fool you.... freaky fish dwell in that there water!

Day 2-  Slaughtering the Pig, Drowning In a Upright Position and  a Side of Bear Attack
We were prepared for a full day of rain.  That was the forecast going in and one of the reasons we decided to hike an extra 3kms on the first day.  The rain started at 5:00 am but by 7:00 am it had quit.  We quickly packed up camp and ate breakfast before hitting the trail.  We couldn't believe our luck.  There was no sun, but no rain.  S & I hoped our luck would hold out and we could make it to our next site before the rain hit.

There is an infamous hill on the LaCloche.... called the Pig.  It is the longest and highest portage for those that are canoeing.  For back packers it is a long and tedious cobble hill that keeps going and going and going.  At one point the Pig splits into a Y.  S & I were unclear which side we needed to travel on so S went right and I went left.  This of course remained me of a classic Scottish tune and it was a long time before I could get this song worm out of my head "So ye take the high road and I'll take the low road and I'll be in Scotland before ye!."

As enduring and motivating as Scottish ditties can be I had to resort to  psychological tricks to get up the rest of the hill.  Enter my fav trick-  just walk 10 steps.... because anyone can walk 10 steps!  Using this technique I can usually make it 100 steps before I need a break to catch my wind and psych myself up for another 100 steps.

That's how the Pig was slaughtered on Day 2....100 steps at a time.

Now once you get past the Pig there is a short cut that can be taken at the base of a dam.  It cuts about 3- 3.5 km off the trail.  Sadly S gets nervous with river crossing.  We discussed it on our break at the top of ridge after the Pig and decided that we would take the actual trail, so that we were not cutting short our LaCloche experience.

Let me tell you.... if you can..... TAKE THE SHORT CUT!

The section of the trail past the short cut is by no means technically challenging but it is the longest and boringest section of the trail.  My grump was growing exponentially with every footstep.  When would the torture end.  It didn't... it just kept going on and on.   There is no redeeming scenery or views.... nothing to end the monotony.  It is what it is-  a path.  Luckily the yellow campsite sign popped up before my grump spilled over and my caustic thoughts spilled out of my mouth.

We stopped at H8 for lunch.  We hadn't been grazing long before I spotted a deer... the first non-frog/snake sighting of the trip.  A short while later we were treated to the grunty squeally call of an animal that neither of us had heard before... whatever it was it was talky.

I was just starting to feel human again when the rain started.  At first it was a mist, then it started coming down harder.  It lifted for a few minutes but then returned.  Our luck had run out.

I covered Atholl with the pack cover and swung him into place and head back out into the wilderness.  We had walked about 20 minutes when the skies opened up and the real rain came down. It came down so hard I started longing for the gentle rain of minutes before.   It soaked through the remaining dry spots in my clothing.  It ran down my legs and filled my boots.  Within seconds I was a walking talking river of wetness!

What can you do when you are caught in a deluge with no hope of drying off any time soon.... well you do what the folks of yore did... laugh hysterically and keep on laughing.... as the only alternative is to cry and that just makes you wetter.

Before you start feeling sorry for me let me fill you in on a fun fact... rain has a plus side!  It saves you time as you don't need to stop to rehydrate, as all you need to do is lick your lips to replenish fluids.

It wasn't long before my glasses were so spotty it was like looking through a kaleidoscope.... pretty but hard to see safe places to step and to locate blazes on the trees.  We were about to start up a little hill when S stopped dead in her tracks and says what no hiker wants to hear- "Is that a bear?"  Blind me asks- "Where???..... WHERE????"  She points and I'm frantically trying to rub the droplets off my glasses but as soon as the drops are wiped off the rain replaces what I removed.  I couldn't tell.  It could be a bear.

When in doubt play is safe.  I start blasting the air horn, we start talking to the bear telling it to leave.  S looks and says-  "It didn't  work.  It just stood up!"  We start the process all over only this time we begged the bear to leave.    Three to four minutes of talking and honking and the bear was still there.  That's when S realized it was a stump .  A tricky stump that when you stood one way it looked like a bear on all fours and when you moved to the right it looked like it was standing up.

Whew!  Bear attack survived we continued down the trail.

100%- Whatever! 
I would love to say the rain let up but it didn't.  It fell and fell and fell. The rain tested the moxy of our 100% Waterproof pack covers.  Sadly the covers failed and our packs were as wet as we were.   There was a brief moment when it was slightly lighter rain and we used that time to quickly set-up our tents and pump water on H16. Then we retreated into our tents to begin the process of changing out of our soaking clothes into something dry. 

It was hard to keep the water out of the tent.  Thank goodness for plastic bags, towels and separate tents.  Each of us had a dry side in the tent and a wet side.  I wrung out my clothes, would wait a few minutes and wrung out more water.  It was horrible.  We didn't have time to hang the food, thinking that the rain would let up again and we could hang it then.  But the rain had a mind of it's own.  We add our lunch food for supper as the rain was too heavy to go out and use a stove to cook a meal.  At one point a brave chipmunk, looking for food and a dry spot to dine in, ducked under my fly and tried to steal my food bag.  Cheeky little bugger!

Realizing that the rain was going to keep on going, I finally donned my rain gear and went in search of a tree to hang the food from.  The lucky rock was not so lucky today, as the line was wet and kept getting hung up on the branches.  It took three times to finally get the line up on a branch.   Too boot it wasn't a perfect branch to hang food from as the bag ended up being about 6-7 feet from the ground....  but it was up and my dryish tent was waiting.  I huddled into my sleeping bag and prepared for sleep while listening to the weather report for the next day.  Great more possible rain.  Nuts!

Day 3-  Loonie Tunes a la Pepto
Day 3  started with the need to make an important decision.....  to wear my soaked clothing or my only remaining dry clothes????  I chanced it and went with fresh clothes.  As I was packing up I became aware that my stomach was doing flip flops and the thought of eating made me want to hurl.  Although happy that the incessant rain had lifted, every bone in my body screamed turn back.  It isn't worth it! There are way better ways to amuse yourself than to continue on!  Sadly S was rejuvenated.  Even our bear scare wasn't enough to dampen her spirit.  She was raring to get back out on the trail and convinced me that I would be fine.

Within an hour we had broken camp and were on the trail again.  The talk reverted back to "The Dudes" as this would be the day we would be passing each other on the trail. Both S and I hoped we wouldn't run into the Dudes too soon, as it would mean they were hiking faster than we were.

It was about an hour into hiking, I had my first fall.  I was walking down a rocky slope and my feet shot out to the right skidding at a right angle to the direction I was travelling.  I went down in a baseball slide and managed to walk away with no bruises or scraps.  Whoo hoo!

It wasn't long after that we ran into a woman who was hiking solo.  She had planned to hike the full trail but after the rain of the day before she decided it wasn't safe to be on the trail alone and she was heading back to the campground.  We wished her well and I secretly wished I was travelling back with her.  So long!!!! Farewell!!!!

We were about two campsites away from the turn off to H21 when "The Dude's" announced their presence.  They obviously weren't expecting company, as they were talking about ball chaffing.  The Dude who had the chaffed balls apologized. I was going to point out that next time he should consider packing some Monkey Butt or talc.... but then thought better of it... who wants to talk about ball health with a stranger! 

Of course we had to ask them our burning question-  WHY!

As it turns out The Dudes are a fan of this extreme sports guru who does ultramarathoning and vlogs about it.  Their hero apparently did the full LaCloche in 9 hours.  The Dudes wanted to do the LaCloche in as little time as possible.  Well good on them.  Now if you are a male reading this and are now inspired by the Dudes just learn from their mistake.... plan for ball first aid.... as chaffing is a bitch!

We stopped at H20 for lunch and not a moment to soon.  My queasy stomach had turned into a griping gut and I needed the thunder box aka the privy in the worst way.  Now the privy on this sight is up a big hill.  In fact it is perched on the edge of a big hill and it looks out over the camp site.  Nice views... but not for the others in the camp site.  Poor S looked up just as I was dropping my drawers... she quickly looked away.... poor, poor S!

The one advantage of Day 3 was the weather turned out to be beautiful.  S and I took advantage of the sun laid out our wet clothing and boots trying to get in some drying time while it was available.  Given the shining sun we chanced listening to our iPods for the rest of the walk.  I laughed when the first song that came one was "Happy Idiot" by Seeds.  It seemed fitting, as I was really beginning to question my idea of fun.   

After what felt like an eternity we finally saw the yellow blaze that indicates a campsite.  We knew from the map that we had at least 1 km to walk before we got to the site, but we didn't know that it would be a scramble over rocks with lots of ups and downs.  Not something that you want when you are weary and your concentration is waning.  I was prepared for more wipe-outs, lucky for me, my ability to find good footing held out and we made it to the sight.


H21 was probably the best site out of the whole trip.  Had a sheltered spot for the tents, that was relatively level, great water access and no creepy fish!  The loons were out in full force and I was able to bear witness to a loon to loon rumble...  man are they loud.   There was sun and a breeze which aided in the speedy drying of our clothing and boots, with the exception of the socks I was wearing on Day 2... those puppies were perma-wet for the rest of the trip.
A little slice of heaven...  Three Narrows Lake
Unfortunately my stomach and my intestines were still rebelling.  I started popping Pepto and Gravol and hoped for the best.  Whether we turned around and went back or kept on going was all going to be dependent on how I felt on Day 4.

Day 4-  Torture with A Side of Bliss and a Gallon of Water
Decision Day!!!

I woke-up to find that my gut rebelled at the thought of oatmeal for breakfast but was really interested in beef jerky.... go figure.  I took this as a sign that we were meant to carry on.

We packed up in record time and faced the climb out of this site, had we known this was going to be the easy part of the day, we both might have decided to turn around.  It wasn't long before the climbs became "CLIMBS" and the downhills became "ARE You FREAKIN' KIDDING ME!!!!!".

S and I both stopped at the first big downhill.  This Mother Fudger went down.... way down and at a 80-85 degree slope.   The path was a mixture of loose dirt, rocks and a tree root here and there.  Definitely not the most stable footing.  S decided she would descend this beast facing down hill and as she slowly picked her way down the hill, I decided I would go the way of the bear.... turned to face uphill and lumber down backward.  My technique paid off.  I was down the hill in record time and patiently waited for S at the bottom.  It was hard not to be in awe of this hill and to know that we made it down unscathed carrying heavy packs.

When we got to the bottom and looked up we said in unison "Glad it wasn't raining while we did that!" (This seemed to become the catch phrase for the rest of the trip).

It wasn't long before we came to the water fall.  All my You-Tubing prior to the trip paid off.  I knew that this was the last predictable & accessible water spot until we hit our campsite for the night.  To save time we decided to scoop and chemically treat the water... our first attempt for the trip.  Loaded up with a fresh supply of water we continued along the trail.  That is when Surprise #2 happened.

Now I knew from the You-Tube videos that we would be walking beside the water fall what I didn't know that for part of it we would be walking in the water fall.  If you have read any of my back-packing blogs before you know that water + rocks+ my boots are not.... so NOT.... a good combination.  I had visions of tumbling a$$ over tea kettle down the waterfall back to the starting point.  Thank goodness luck was on my side and all that I suffered was the occasional boot slip that had my heart racing and adrenaline pumping.

We continued along..... long ups followed by steep downs until we got to H23.  I begged S to stop so that I could stretch out my abdomen, as my stomach was rolling again and my innards were complaining.  I made a trip or two to the privy and it was upon my second return that I realized my Fit Bit was MIA!

When was the last time I saw it??????

FUUDDDDGGGE#### - At the privy.

I headed back to the privy dreading the thought that I would have to make a decision.... scoop the Fit Bit out of the depths of the privy OR to bid it adieu.  The whole walk there I scanned and scanned the ground, hoping against hopes that I would find it lying there.... but alas there was no Fit Bit on the path to the privy or lying beside it.

I said a silent prayer as I lifted the lid of the privy and peered in at the murky mess that it held.......

WHAT????

No Fit Bit!  What the HELL!

More scanning of the ground...... packing and unpacking of the pack..... patting of all my pockets...... nothing?

S commented- "Are you sure it's not in your pocket?"  I was vehemently replying-  "I've CHECKED TWICE!!!!!"  as I felt the dang thing in the pocket of the pants I was wearing under my splash pants!

Hand to forehead!

We continued along the trail knowing we had about another 5 km of ups and downs before we would be remotely close to our campsite for the night.  It was foggy... it drizzled.... it rained a little harder.... it fogged in more.  With each step my spirits fell lower and I questioned the WHY??? of this trip over and over.

I ventured to attempt a picture during one of our rest breaks.
At long last we saw the yellow blaze (by the way yellow became my new fav colour on this trip).  A happy dance ensued, but as it turned out we celebrated way too soon.  There were small slopes to scale, streams to jump and open rock faces to cross.  We finally reached the first campsite and I pleaded that we stop at that one, but S insisted that we needed to keep going until we got to the site we reserved for the night.  I will admit I had some really not nice thoughts about S going through my head at this time.  Lucky for her she was speedy and pulled ahead of me.... leaving me to stew in my bitterness.

Now H32 is gorgeous but you have to wonder about any campsite that needs seven.... yes seven cairns to point out the direction to the privy.  Did I mention that this was all uphill????? And a rocky hill at that!!!!!

CHRIST!!!

No person should have to go through that to have a pee..... so I didn't.    I ended up squatting and peeing wherever I felt like it..... take that impossible campsite!

By Day 4, S's blisters were so bad she had to wear her sleeping socks as a buffer between her fragile skin and the straps of her sandals.  My blisters were equally large, but luckily not in places that affected my ability to walk.

Although the distance to the privy is a disadvantage for this site... this site does host a bonus-  There is a rocky ledge that you can sit on to you soak your feet in the lake.  We did this while eating our supper and it made for an enjoyable meal-time.  It didn't hurt that the sun finally came out for the day and blessed us for a bit before the storm rolled in.  
SUN!!!!!  Lake Shigaug
It didn't seem that long from the time we retired for the night before the lightening started lighting up the sky.  I quickly unzipped the tent and ran outside (okay it was more of a creaky stand and fast pace hobble than a run) to have one last pee before the rain came down full force.  S hearing me commented- "Are you bringing your pack in?"  My response was "Noooooooo-  But that is a great idea!  You might want to wait a minute before coming out!"  Neither of us needed a repeat of the H20 experience.

We made it back to the "comforts" of our tents before the storm hit and boy did it hit.  The tent lit up every few minutes and the wind ripped at the flies.  The rain came down hard.  This all lasted a while.  It would break for a bit and then it would start all over.  Thank-goodness for shelter, no matter how flimsy it might be.  By this time I was starting to regret all the mocking I had done of Lake Superior thru-hikers.... my mirth at their displeasure was coming back to haunt me in spades.

Blogger Note:
It has taken three months to make it this far in the adventure and this story is starting to turn into a book vs a blog.  With that in mind and my anxiousness to get this thing posted I am suspending the story at the end of Day 4!   Tune in next time to find out the dramatic conclusion of our adventures!'
Hopefully it will not take me three months to write up the second half!